For the president of the International Federation (IFSC), the Italian Marco Scolaris, climbing has real chances of integrating the Olympic program at the 2020 Games. On condition, however, that the IOC favors youth and novelty in immediate commercial and media repercussions. Interview.
FrancsJeux : What is the timetable for the candidacy of climbing, and the six other sports selected by the IOC (1), over the coming months?
Marco Scolaris: The first date is very close. And it will perhaps be decisive. Starting next week, on February 12 and 13, the IOC Executive Board must decide whether one of the sports currently on the Olympic program will come out of the 2020 Games. And, of course, choose the excluded sport. In the event that its members make the decision to keep the 26 sports as they appear on the program today, the application process for climbing and the six other disciplines would end there. Otherwise, we will be invited to a presentation before the IOC Executive Board on May 5 in Saint Petersburg. Immediately afterwards, the selected sport would be chosen. It will then be up to the IOC General Assembly to validate this choice, in September 2013 in Buenos Aires.
What is the trend today?
I hear noises, like everyone else, but nothing filters through. It is said that taekwondo and modern pentathlon are the most threatened. But, again, these are just noises. We don't take care of it.
Among the seven candidate sports, where do you fit in?
It's very difficult to say. All these sports have their arguments, all have their chances. We find ourselves in a situation of rivalry, even though we know each other well and respect each other. This is not obvious. Karate seems a very strong candidate, with 200 national federations, 50 million practitioners worldwide and more than 1000 participants at the last world championships in Paris. We can't say the same, but we represent youth and newness.
What are the advantages of climbing to convince the IOC to include you in the program for the 2020 Games?
We highlight two assets: youth and verticality. Like our international federation, born in January 2007, climbing attracts a young audience. Among practitioners and among the public. But it also affects the oldest. In my gym, some of my friends are 60 to 65 years old, but they train almost every day. As for verticality, a universal movement which has always belonged to humanity, it does not yet exist in the Olympic Games.
What impact would an Olympic label have on your sport?
It would help make us even more universal. Today we have 80 member countries of the IFSC. We are strong in Europe, Asia, America and the two major countries of Oceania, Australia and New Zealand. In Africa, much less. We receive requests from Kenya, Congo or Algeria, in particular, to install equipment. But, without the support and collaboration of national Olympic committees, it is difficult to respond effectively. By integrating the Games, climbing could become a real social tool.
Are you optimistic?
Yes. We have real potential. But everything will depend on the political will of the IOC. If its members want to choose youth and novelty, we have our chances. And I quite believe in this option because the two sports included in the program for the 2016 Games, golf and rugby, do not fit into this desire. But, conversely, if the IOC is looking for immediate commercial and media benefits, then we will not be chosen.
(1) In addition to climbing, the six sports selected by the IOC as candidates for the 2020 Summer Games are karate, wushu, wakeboarding, baseball/softball, squash and inline skating.
